This Saturday, riding the chombi
(public bus) for about two hours in total allowed me to grow accustomed to it’s
rhythms, and thus, a rhythm of Lima. The bus accelerates and stops abruptly,
over and over and over again. Street vendors move in and out of the bus, selling Sublime chocolate and every type of packaged food: candied reddish peanuts
covered in sesame seeds, chocolates with almonds, snacks made of quinoa. Each
time we rode the bus, once to the central market and once back to La Molina, some man would
board the bus and assertively give the well rehearsed story of difficult life
and misfortunes. On the bus ride back, the man also had a child. “they use the
children,” my companion told me before he began his speech. The child’s head
lolled to the side. I found myself wondering if this child would grow to participate
in this lifestyle or choose another. I wondered if he would live that long… In
the moment of this thought, I realized I had never seen a truly sick and
vulnerable baby, one whose life could soon vanish. When the man finished his
speech, I was surprised to see almost everyone on the bus hand a few coins to
the man. After my companion gave her coins to the man, he left the bus, all the
while feeding the baby a part of a granola bar a passenger had given him. Half
ended up falling to the dirty bus steps. “A social problem,” my companion commented
after the man left the bus.
As we rode across the
city, my companions explained the main streets. “This street we are passing
over the top of is Javier Prado. It runs from east to west in the city.” The
street we were traveling on was part of the Pan-South American highway. It runs
from north to south along the cost of al Peru. “It is the most important
highway in Peru. It even runs up to Ecuador and Colombia,” they told me. WE
passed the most modern shopping center I’ve ever seen with spectacular modern sculpture,
lights, and fountains. 15 minutes later, we passed the mountains of los Barrios
Altos, the High Neighborhoods. I was struck by the bricks and thousands of
wooden shipping palates stacked on top of the houses and buildings. This is the
most dangerous district of Lima.
It was an even busier
than usual Saturday in the central market of Lima. First, we visited the
Chinese store, where my companions bought some of the most inexpensive tea I’ve
ever encountered. They loved to shop, so I felt liberated to explore everything in
the market. It seems where ever I go in the world, there will always
be a little China town, a Chinese market, and thus a little bit of my friends
from home. After their attempt to purchase a quarter of the tea in the shop, we
chose one of the countless chifa restaurants (chifa is Peruvian Chinese). We
ate so hunger that we were not talking much. As we ate, we heard silverware slam onto a table. A stalky, angry man pushed back his chair away from his
family, and stood aggressively in front of the waiter. In an instant, the entire
kitchen staff emerged, stepping between the two men, the restraining the thin
and firely angry young waiter. The kitchen staff successfully removed their
friend, and the family left. When the waiter reappeared, many in the restaurant
said things to the waiter like, “what a disagreeable family. It’s not your
fault.” To me, the camaraderie for the waiter, and the waiter for his job, was
pronounced.
Next, we wove our way
out of China town and into the market, where everything you might desire can be
found for an incredibly cheap price. “This is the oldest market in Lima,” my
companion told me. The inside of the market holds fruit, vegetables, and a meat
market. The only circulation in this old two level building is through the
door. Here, all the rank odors of the market collect. Out of the many open,
rectangular white sacs, we purchased spices and herbs for dinner that night.
Cooking in the
Peruvian kitchen is not unlike driving in Peru. Everything appears close to
disaster, to boiling over, or to burning. However, it resulted in the most
beautiful and delicious meal I've shared here. Surprisingly, we made the exact
dishes I chose to cook for my Peruvian preparation dinner: papas a la
Huancayina and arroz con leche. In a country of delicious food, homemade still
remains unbeatable.